Submitted By: Author: Shruti Mishra On Oct 30, 2025 09:51 PM IST
Manish Malhotra is one of the most celebrated and influential costume designers in Indian cinema. His style is synonymous with the glossy, aspirational, and trend-setting aesthetic that dominated mainstream Bollywood from the 1990s onward, particularly in films directed by Karan Johar (like Kuch Kuch Hota Hai, Kabhi Khushi Kabhie Gham) and those produced by Aditya Chopra's Yash Raj Films (like Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge). His work defined the look of the modern, often NRI (Non-Resident Indian), hero and heroine.
On the flip side, Sanjay Leela Bhansali is known for his operatic, intensely stylized, and often historically-rooted epics (Devdas, Bajirao Mastani, Padmaavat). SLB's cinematic world demands costumes that are authentic, intricate, and deeply symbolic, often drawing heavily from regional Indian textiles and historical periods. His costume design choices are fundamental to the texture and mood of his films.
The Malhotra/Dharma-YRF Camp: This group, with Malhotra as a key creative member, specialized in a certain brand of romantic, family-oriented, often contemporary cinema. They are seen as the "mainstream" commercial powerhouse. Malhotra's signature style perfectly matched this high-fashion, high-glamour sensibility.
The Bhansali Camp: SLB is often seen as an auteur who operates somewhat outside the typical commercial machinery. He demands absolute control and a specific, non-mainstream aesthetic vision. His frequent collaborations with other talented designers—like Neeta Lulla (for Devdas) and Anju Modi (for Bajirao Mastani)—show that his vision requires a different kind of specialization than the one Malhotra usually provides.
The Proximity Argument: Because Manish Malhotra was the "go-to" and practically "house designer" for Karan Johar and Aditya Chopra, it's suggested that aligning with him might have been perceived as blurring creative lines or potentially importing an aesthetic that was too Dharma or YRF into a Bhansali film. SLB is known for being fiercely protective of his own, distinct cinematic language, and using Malhotra could have inadvertently introduced a creative signature he was trying to avoid.
Creative Divergence as the Primary Factor
While industry politics might offer a compelling narrative, the most plausible and plagiarism-friendly explanation is the fundamental difference in creative requirements.
Malhotra’s strength lies in contemporary fashion, chiffon sarees, chic suits, and glamorous red-carpet looks. Bhansali’s films require historical accuracy, heavy embroideries, period jewelry, and specific cultural detailing that convey opulence and tragedy simultaneously.
SLB’s intense, dramatic scripts simply called for a designer whose specialism lay in period and regional costume detailing, which has historically been the strength of designers like Anju Modi, who won accolades for her work on Bajirao Mastani. To know such latest updates, stay tuned to serialboosters.com Thank you!
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